Ragamala Paintings, Types of Ragamala Paintings, Ragamala Paintings Art Gallery

A Ragamala painting is a correlation between the art of music and painting. An ancient art form of India, where music, poetry and painting come together to mesmerize the senses. ‘Ragamala' literally means ‘A Garland of Melodies'. It is basically a display of a raga (various Indian musical mode), in the form of a painting. Ragamala paintings were produced in most schools of India painting, in the 16th and 17th centuries.

Ragmala Painting of Rag (Ragini) 

Types of Ragamala Paintings

• Pahari Ragamala
• Rajasthan or Rajput Ragamala
• Deccan Ragamala
• Mughal Ragamala

Charateristics of Ragamala Paintings

In these painting each raga is depicted by a mood, colour, a verse telling a story of a hero and heroine (nayaka and nayika). It also displays the season and the time of day and night in which a particular raga is to be sung. And we also have ragamal paintings showing the specific Hindu deities attached with the raga, like Bhairava or Bhairavi to Shiva, Sri to Devi etc. The paintings depict not just the Ragas, but also their wives (raginis), their numerous sons (ragaputra) and daughters (ragaputri).

Principal Ragas

There are six principal ragas found in the Ragamala: 

• Bhairava
• Dipika
• Sri
• Malkaunsa
• Megha 
• Hindola 

These ragas are meant to be sung during the six seasons of the year - summer, monsoon, autumn, early winter, winter and spring.

Ragamala Paintings Art Gallery

Hindola_Raga,_Ragamala,_17th_century

Rajasthan-Ragmala

Pancham_Ragini_Ragamala,1680-1690

Radha-Krishna_a_depiction_of_Bhairava_Raga

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Khadi Print Works, Khari Print Products, Khari Print Designs & Motifs

Khari or Chamki print is a traditional printing and dyeing work, the roots of which are found in Rajasthan, India. Khari print work has earned immense fame in the past decades. This art of printing enhances the look of the fabrics, even the plainest textile. 

Also known as Tinsel Printing, khari printing has been a long tradition in Rajasthan and originally this art of decorating textiles was extensively applied to the royal costumes and the articles that were used in the royal kingdoms. This art work is today practiced all over Rajasthan, Jaipur, Barmer, Jodhpur, Udaipur and Ajmer. Khari printing, in gold and silver, was developed to simulate the look of rich brocade and embroidery. 

Khari print Fabrics

Khari Print Products

It is very interesting to watch the weaver and artisans making exquisite patterns on wedding saris, odhnis, and turbans with speed clubbed with magnificent deftness. Khari printed products are available in the form of fabrics meant to be used to make salwar suits, kurtis, and also home furnishing products like as bed covers, cushion covers, curtains etc. Khari work is primarily done on garments that are worn for ceremonial purposes. It is also created on garments like the kanchli, ghaghra, angarkha, jama, odhna and turban cloth. A special bridal chunri called phavri or phamri is an imporatnt part of the Rajasthani bride's trousseau and is worn on festivals like Teej and Gangaur, which has elaborate khari works. This wedding chunri is usually red in colour and has a special design called khaja, printed in its centre.

Golden khari print on a simple South Cotton Saree  

Block Khari print on a Skirt

Khari print on a Cotton Kurta

Khari Print Designs & Motifs

Previously, artisans of Rajasthan used gold or silver dust for Khari printing. This was later replaced by flakes of crushed mica, or cheaper metal powders, called bodal. Nowadays, granular and fine metallic powders, in various colors on a gold or silver base, are used for tinsel printing.  The most common motifs, used in khari printing, are the phul, chandani, buti, mor, mogra, keri and khaja. The ground fabric can be of any colour and does not have to be washed earlier as in other printing techniques. 

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Chanderi Sarees, Indian Chanderi Sari, Chanderi Sari Motifs, Chanderi Saree Colors, Chanderi Saree Design Gallery

Chanderi sarees are the world famous sarees produced in Chanderi, a small town in Madhya Pradesh. Chanderi is a reputed center for traditional weavers of sarees and is one of the best known clusters in India, particularly famous for its Chanderi sarees, made with mix of cotton and silk. They are very light and perfect for Indian summers. This sari has its beauty in its simplicity and airy feel, intricately designed anchals with buttis and narrow borders. The Chanderi sarees give a sophisticated look to whoever who wears it.

Chanderi Sarees

Chanderi Sarees Fabric

The Chanderi sari is woven in cotton as well as silk. Chanderi silk is the outcome of traditional methods of hand-weaving that have been developed over the years, and passed down through generations. Chanderi silk is considered the fabric of choice for sarees produced for royalty. The weave - Pure silk – where the warp as well as the weft is woven in 20/22 denier silk. Chanderi cotton – where the warp and weft are 100s or 120s cotton. The Chanderi muslins have been considered to be better than Dacca muslins because of the softness and feel. There is also the Silk Cotton chanderi saree where the weaver deftly combines 20/22-denier warp with 100s/120s cotton in the weft.

Chanderi Saris Motifs

The usual motifs are flowers, sprays, round buties (asrafis) and net patterns (jaal). Sunrise and temple border are also a specialty. Ginni, or coin, is a traditional Chanderi motif. Motifs are drawn from the Earth and sky, hunting Scenes, the tree of life, birds, fruits, flowers, man-woman, heavenly bodies. Great care is given to the buti or motif in the body which enriches the design. A variety of motifs are used such as Ashrafi, Churi, Phul- Patti, Phul-Buta, Bundi, Keri, Baddi Ka Phul, Akhrot, Paan, Suraj Buti, Eeth, Kirkita, Rui Phul Kinar, Meena Buti, Kalgi, Ghoongra, Khajura, Dunaliya, Iknaliya Buti, Iknaliya Buti and Geometric designs are also used. These motifs are used in borders, pallav and main field of the sari. Plain saris are also woven, sometimes zari is also used. 

Chanderi Saree Colors

These sarees have a rare fusion of soft and contrasting colors. Chanderi sari is known for soft colors and the perfect balance between the border and the body of the saree. However, there are some typical contrasting combinations like black against red and Ganga-Jamuna saris, with green on one border and red or Kumkum on the other with a natural off white body. The traditional colors are pastel shades of green, peach, pink, and blue. Cream and off white is also used now. Saris in all dark and light shades are being produced. For example, maroon, dark blue, green, etc. The hues and shades of the fabric are referred to in the vernacular as follow

• Dalimbi (deep pink)
• Angoori (grapevine)
• Rani (deep mauve pink)
• Gul Bakshi (magenta)
• Jaamla (purple) 
• Kassni (light violet)
• Aamrak (golden) 
• Chintamani (peacock blue)
• Kesari (red) 
• Tapkeeree (deep brown)
• Mehndi (olive green) 
• Phalsa (maroon) 
• Katthai, Pyaazi (mauve) 
• Badami
• Morgardini

Chanderi Saree Design Gallery 

Kareena Kapoor in Black Gold Chanderi Sari

White-Gold Chanderi Saree

Silk Cotton Chanderi Saree

Bright Green Chanderi Silk Saree

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